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Continuing in a sluggish torpor from Mopti, Mali as the heat seemed, impossibly, to increase, I spent the final days of the journey, sweltering in the 115-degree temperature on the Niger River, heading towards Timbuktu, in a thatched roof boat. Seeking refuge from the scorching sun, sitting on piles of rugs that we used to camp at night, I am under the roof of the boat, looking out at the captain and his friend sitting on the bow of the boat scanning the wide expanse of the Niger River.
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